Monday, March 12, 2012

Cuzco 4 - Football

This was mainly written for Zu's team mates and their parents in Monmouth.  Skip to the other posts below if not interested.
On our third day here we were down at Pisac,  a small town about 40 minutes away from Cuzco.  We saw about 20 teenagers being trained on a beautiful pitch beside the hotel. It was all being taken very seriously.  By chance we then bumped into the coach as we were about to return to Cuzco. I asked about training for 9 year olds.  He scribbled down the address of a monastery and the name ‘Stephen’, English Soccer School.

We found the run-down old monastery and on the gate was a sign for English Soccer School with telephone number but on the pitch there was another club training – Alianza Junior.  They were very welcoming and we took down their details.  Then friends took us to another school run by Martin Garcia, who won the Copa de Libertadores with Cienciano, the only Cuzco team to have won it.  There was no one there but the pitch they train on looked awful – large patches of bare mud.  We also felt little intimidated by the area;  it was something of a no-man’s land. (Martha’s handbag has already been stolen and we are perhaps a little jittery). A fourth option was put to us by a taxi driver: the Alianza Lima – Cuzco.  They were a little gruff on the phone but said Zu could join.

All this was right at the end of their long summer holidays and almost all the clubs were still running their holiday sessions – three hours a day, five days a week! We waited to see the term-time timetable (starting on March 1st).  In the end we plumped for English Soccer School who train 3.30 to 6.00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays and from 9.00 to 12.00 on Saturdays, largely because this timing suits us.  For this we pay about £11/month.  This helps to pay the assistant coaches, probably at a reasonable rate for Peru. I think it also subsidises the boys with promise whose parents can’t afford to pay.

The chief coach, Stephen, is a missionary from Bristol.  He does the organising but doesn’t do much coaching.  In fact, on most of the occasions we’ve been there, he has spent the majority of the session jawing with me.  He’s been here seven or eight years and is married to a Peruvian but I think he’s a bit homesick.  The two men who do the actual coaching are Michel and Miguel, cousins, and are excellent. Although called ‘English Soccer School’ there is not an English voice to be heard except Stephen’s.

All this is probably making it sound as though the football scene is quite organised.  It isn’t.  Training nominally begins at 3.30 but if you turn up at that time you’ll be guaranteed a good long wait for the first coach or boy.  Turn up at 4.00 and they might just be thinking of fetching the balls from the lock-up. Nor can you guarantee a good turn-out.  If it looks rainy or cold (and now is the end of the rainy season) only five or six might turn up.

The training itself is good.  There is a surprising amount of emphasis on physical fitness.  The boys have to run round the pitch with the ball, without the ball, then walk round to recover.  Zu was a little breathless at first but is now fine.  Then the exercises themselves involve more running.  But of course individual skills aren’t neglected.  They have to dance their way through cones or sticks with the ball, forwards and backwards, with right foot, with left foot.  And they are taught to curl the ball when shooting, both with the inside and outside of the foot.  Zu loves the shooting sessions – the ball whistles through the air with delicious speed at 11,000 feet.

We get to training in a mini-bus colectivo.  Luckily the route begins near our house and we get a seat. However, it fills up rapidly and after five minutes all the 14 seats are full.  But they still stop merrily at bus stops and try to entice more passengers on.  We’ve had 26 before, which inevitably means someone almost sitting on my knee and a fight to get off.  Luckily the conductors tend to be very bossy and force the other passengers to make way. Strangely this means of transport feels much safer than going by taxi; the taxi drivers like to weave their way through the traffic but anticipation is rarely a strong point. The cost for the half journey is another advantage – 20p for the two of us.

At the first session most of the better players were away playing in the semi-final of a tournament.  But there were still twelve or so at the training so a game could be played.  It soon became apparent that Zu was the best player on the pitch and his side were soon five or six up.  One rather loud-mouthed boy on the other side, who obviously fancied himself,  took exception to this. When Zu next took the ball off him he suddenly let out a shriek.  “He pinched me! He pinched me!” he shouted to the ref, Michel.  The ref, with a slight grin, walked up to him while all the other players crowded round. “Show me the mark” he said.  Of course there was none and all the other boys gave him a good ribbing.  His tussles with Zu remained equally competitive but he did not resort to foul play again.  I was amused to see that this boy put on a top after the game with ‘Alemania’ on the back.

The first team won their semi-final and we went along to the final.  This was played on the artificial grass training pitch of Garcilaso, one of the two first division clubs in Cuzco.  The opponents were the Academy boys from Cienciano, the other big team.  Before the match, ‘English’ went into a huddle which took rather a long time.  The ref became impatient and blew his whistle a few times.  I suddenly realised that Stephen was leading them in prayer.  Alas, it did not help.  Cienciano were better and more physical.  They had a centre half and midfielder who were like young Kray twins and the little ‘English’ flies were pushed off the ball time and time again.  The ‘English’ supporters were incensed by this and shouted all sorts of rude things at the ref, albeit in very good humour.  In between they chanted (in thick Spanish accents) “Ingleesh, ingleesh, ingleesh”.  In the end Cienciano won 3-0.  Zu of course was itching to play and could possibly have made a difference.  The coaches are keen to know if he will be available for the next tournament in April, so they obviously think he can make the team.

Of course this is not all the football Zu plays.  Just up the hill from us is a concrete football –come– basketball pitch.  He loiters there after school and has inveigled himself into several games. We have been hoping he would learn some more Spanish doing this but if the language of football is universal it isn’t sophisticated: aca, aca, aca (here, here, here) is about all they seem to shout except gooooool!


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